SUPER CINNAMON BALL PYTHON FOR SALE
A homozygous Cinnamon, the Baby Super Cinnamon Ball Python is a wholly pattern less dark colored snake. The genetics of our Baby Super-Cinnamon Ball Pythons for sale are guaranteed.
Ball python or Royal python are two common names for the same snake.
Python regius is the scientific name for this species.
Western and Central Africa are the native habitats of this species.
Lifespan: They can live between 20 and 40 years if properly cared for.
Size: They can reach a height of 3-6 feet. Females have a significantly bigger girth than males.
Expert Level: Suitable for all ages of beginners.
Ball pythons are generally shy as babies, but as they grow older, they will become more interactive and curious.
Handling: Continue to handle your Ball python on a regular basis so that it becomes accustomed to human contact.
TO CARE FOR YOUR NEW BALL PYTHON(S), YOU WILL REQUIRE THE FOLLOWING:
A Ball python can be kept in a variety of ways. Keep your newborn Ball python in a 15-20 gallon terrarium, which is the most common method. If you want to start breeding, you should invest in a rack system. Rack systems, which can connect Flexwatt heat tape to share heat, are the greatest way to keep medium to large collections of Ball pythons.
Baby Ball pythons will feel safer in an enclosure that is less than 25 gallons, in our opinion. Then, as your Ball python develops, you can expand the enclosure’s size. ***
A Bioactive Vivarium, which includes establishing a natural living habitat with plants, substrate, and living organisms that function as a cleanup crew in the enclosure, is a pretty amazing thing to do for your Ball Python.
Multiple Ball Pythons at One Place:
Cohabiting with your Ball Pythons is not a good idea. Yes, some people are able to cohabit with their snakes, but it is not an ideal situation. Ball pythons can become stressed or damaged if they are not properly cared for. Only while breeding two snakes should they be kept together.
Dish with Water:
Water is essential for your Ball python and should always be present in their enclosure. Make sure you don’t give your reptile distilled water. If you’re not sure whether your tap water is safe, we recommend spring water in a bottle. You can also purchase the following product: “ReptiSafe® water conditioner, which is wonderful for water bowls and eliminates chloramines and chlorine, detoxifies ammonia and nitrites, and offers vital ions and electrolytes to assist hydrate freshly acquired animals.”
Sand or cedar should not be used as a substrate. Reptile Prime, Repti Bark, and Newspaper/Paper Towel are all safe choices.
You should have two hides, one on the heated side and the other on the cold side. With a hide on both sides, your Ball python will be able to maintain a comfortable temperature.
I’m overjoyed that our Reptile Prime substrate has received such excellent feedback, and I can honestly state it’s one of the best substrates for Ball pythons on the market.
If you’re interested in purchasing a bag, please visit ReptilePrime.com to do so. Also available on Amazon Prime is the substrate. Customers in Canada are unable to purchase on the website, but they can do so through Amazon Prime.
The humidity level in a ball python’s enclosure should be around 60% on average. Sometimes, a little more height is required for babies. If your Ball python is having difficulty shedding, I recommend increasing the humidity slightly. A few simple techniques to enhance humidity include dampening bedding with a spray bottle and using a larger water dish.
Cover the screen top with a cloth and add live plants, as well as a humidifier in the same room, a waterfall feature in the enclosure, and a humidifier. Keep in mind that if you reside in a location that gets cold and dry in the winter, maintaining a high level of humidity may be difficult. Try to keep it as close to 60% as possible, and if you need help with a stuck shed, go to the shedding area.
I’m constantly astonished at how many reptile keepers refuse to invest in this crucial piece of equipment. A hygrometer is a piece of equipment that allows you to measure the humidity in your reptile’s habitat for a very low price.
Ball pythons shed their skin
They will shed their skin several times throughout their lives. Ball Pythons shed more frequently as they become older. Pre-ecdysis occurs when your Ball python’s scales become dull and their eyes turn blue, indicating that it’s time to shed. It is totally natural for your Ball python to refuse to feed during this time.
You can slightly increase the humidity to assist your Ball python shed completely. Ecdysis is the process by which your Ball python removes its skin. Your Ball python will begin to rub its little faces on the decor, the terrarium, rocks, or even you if you are holding them. If the humidity is right and your python isn’t shedding, you should have a lovely finished shed.
If your Ball python has stuck shed, make sure the humidity in their environment is high enough. Using a Rubbermaid or Sterilite tub with holes is one approach to help with a jammed shed. The first method is to immerse your Ball python for 30 minutes in about an inch of (slightly warmer than room temperature) water. The second thing you may do is wet a paper towel with warm water, twist out the excess water, and put it in a tub.
After that, let your Ball python go around for 30 to 1 hour. Put on a rubber thumb to carefully remove the trapped shed after your Ball python has either soaked or cruised about the paper towel. If you are unable to remove an eye cap or a piece of shed that appears to be limiting, please seek professional assistance from a local breeder or veterinarian.
Scale Rot: If your Ball python develops a rash or blisters, it could be due to scale rot.
Rot of the scales
The most common cause of scale rot is excessive dampness. To begin, place your Ball python in a perfectly dry habitat. We recommend using paper towel as a substrate because you can easily change it to keep the cage dry. Place a water dish back into their habitat after a day or two. If you see that the water dish has spilled onto the paper towel after re-entering the enclosure,
please replace it. If your snake has urinated or defecated, make sure to clean it up right away. Finally, take your snake to the veterinarian to begin an antibiotic treatment.
Source of heat:
Heat tape, ceramic heat emitters, or a basking light are all options for heating mats (undertank or side). It is not necessary to use UVB light. A basking light or undertank heating pad is the easiest and most efficient way to keep a single Ball python.
This is simply available for purchase on the internet. Flexwatt heat tape is an excellent choice for bigger groups in a rack arrangement. This can be found online or in a hardware shop. Heat rocks should not be used in the enclosure of a Ball python since they may cause the python to get burned.
The temperature on the hot side should be between 85 and 91 degrees Fahrenheit, but not above 93 degrees Fahrenheit, since this can cause your Ball python to lose weight. The cool side should be around 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
We believe that purchasing at LEAST one is a MUST in order to ensure that the temperatures in your Ball python’s enclosure are correct. We recommend getting two so you can measure the temperatures on both the hot and cold sides. There are numerous alternatives available on the market. Look around to find where the finest bargains may be found. A Digital Infrared thermometer that reads the temperature instantaneously is also available.
Once a week, we begin all of our baby Ball pythons on live little adult mice. We start giving them frozen/thawed once they’ve established a regular feeding schedule. You can keep your Ball python alive or freeze/thaw it, whatever is more convenient for you. Please keep in mind that if you feed live mice, you must supervise the feedings because live mice might cause injury to your Ball python. The prey’s largest body part should be the same size as the prey’s largest body part. Cinnamon ball python, Ball python for sale, Corn snake, Reptiles store, Snakes for sale, Reptiles for sale
You can change your Ball python’s diet to rats whenever you choose. We usually wait till our Ball pythons are eating medium or large adult mice before feeding them. If you’re feeding live rats, look for a local breeder who sells rodents in your neighborhood. Many internet vendors bring bulk mice and/or rats to your door if you’re feeding frozen mice and/or rats.
To defrost a frozen rodent, either leave it on your counter overnight or place it in warm water. DO NOT HEAT YOUR RODENTS IN THE MICROWAVE. Do not keep your Ball python for more than 24-48 hours after it has eaten.
Problems with Feeding:
Ball pythons are known for being finicky eaters, so don’t assume you’re doing something wrong if yours refuses to eat. If you have a baby Ball python who has never eaten, they may refuse to eat for a few weeks because the egg has filled them up. If your baby continues to refuse to eat, you may need to help feed him. If this is your first time assisting feed, please do so with the help of a professional. YOUR BALL PYTHON SHOULD NEVER BE FORCED TO EAT.
If you have a newborn Ball python that is refusing to eat despite the fact that the breeder or retailer claims they have previously eaten a few meals, your Ball python may require some time to adjust to their new habitat. Also, double-check that your temperatures and humidity levels are accurate. Here are a few more pointers:
Alternating between live and frozen rodents, slowly warming a thawed rodent in warm water, switching between rats and mice, trying a smaller rodent, feeding in the evening or right before bed, and feeding in a separate smaller feeding box are all things to consider.
Keep in mind that if your infant Ball python refuses to eat, space your offerings out by 1-2 weeks to maintain a robust feeding response in your Ball python.
Some keepers have been reported to offer a different color mouse, scent the mouse, and brain a frozen/thawed mouse. I haven’t heard of many keepers who have had success with those tactics, but it’s always worth a shot. Cinnamon ball python, Ball python for sale, Corn snake, Reptiles store, Snakes for sale, Reptiles for sale
Regurgitation is particularly dangerous to ball pythons. If your Ball python regurgitates for any reason, wait 1.5 weeks before feeding again, and then feed smaller meals for a month before presenting a regular meal. Please see a veterinarian if your Ball python regurgitates a second time.
Respiratory Infections (R.Is) are infections that affect the lungs.
If your Ball python shows signs of a respiratory infection, take it to a veterinarian for a diagnosis and antibiotic treatment. The sooner you see a veterinarian, the faster you will recover. Make the following changes to their enclosure: keep the temperature on the hot side at 92°F and the humidity at roughly 90%.
The healing process will be aided by a hot and humid environment. For minor RI, nebulizing your snakes with F10 veterinary disinfectant has shown to be effective. I would only recommend doing this in conjunction with having your python examined by a veterinarian. Whether your Ball python has a bad respiratory infection, ask your veterinarian if they think you should take them off food for a while. Cinnamon ball python, Ball python for sale, Corn snake, Reptiles store, Snakes for sale, Reptiles for sale
If you’re bringing a reptile into your house or collection, make sure it’s quarantined from other reptiles. You may use a product called Prevent-A-Mite to spray into their enclosure and it will work wonders.
Symptoms of a mite infestation include:
You may have a snake with mites if your Ball python spends a lot of time in their water dish and you observe black particles floating about in the water. You can also check their scales for any elevated scales where mites might be hiding.
Treatment for Mites:
If you discover that your Ball python has mites, give it a wash in warm water that is approximately an inch deep. Completely clean your Ball python’s enclosure while it is bathing. In my view, I would acquire a separate tub or terrarium, like as a Rubbermaid/Sterlite container, and spray it down with Prevent-A-Mite.
Allow the enclosure to air dry completely before filling it with nothing but a paper towel as a substrate. Replace the water dish in the enclosure after a day or two. For about a month, you’ll need to keep bathing your Ball python, sanitizing your enclosure, and using Prevent-A-Mite. Cinnamon ball python, Ball python for sale, Corn snake, Reptiles store, Snakes for sale, Reptiles for sale
100% Live Arrival Guarantee
All of our animals come with a 100% live arrival guarantee. We also guarantee that the animal’s sex corresponds to what was reported at the time of purchase. However, there are several conditions under which the live arrival guarantee is void. Continue reading
However, there are several conditions under which the live arrival guarantee is void. These circumstances include the following:
1. On the initial delivery attempt, the buyer or a member of the household must be present to sign for the parcel (COURIER provides time of delivery stamp).
2. A shipping delay caused by carrier carelessness.
3. Temperatures below 32°F or above 99°F at the hub or destination.
4. Customers must pick up animals held for pickup at a COURIER site the same day they arrive. (A photo ID must be provided, and it must match the shipping name.)
5. An incorrect delivery address was entered during checkout, resulting in a shipping delay and rerouting.
6. If the Hold For Pickup option was utilized, all Live Arrival Guarantee requests must be submitted within 30 minutes of the product being dropped off by COURIER or within 30 minutes of the package being picked up at Hub. Purple Passion Ball Python, Super-Cinnamon Ball-Python Isopods sent in temperatures exceeding 85°F are not covered by the Live Arrival Guarantee. Cinnamon ball python, Ball python for sale, Corn snake, Reptiles store, Snakes for sale, Reptiles for sale
If your animal dies in transit, we will require you, the buyer, to send a picture of the deceased animal on its back and to inform us as soon as possible after receiving the shipment. Within 30 minutes of the delivery time stamp, this must be provided.
The live arrival guarantee is only valid during the shipping period and is null and void after you receive the animal.
Only the cost of the animal will be covered by the live arrival guarantee; the cost of shipping will not be covered. The buyer is responsible for the price of shipping replacement animals.
The buyer is solely responsible for the animal’s well-being once it has been vetted and approved. Ranch Of Exotic Breeds shall not be held liable for any veterinary expenses spent by the buyer, as well as the animal’s upkeep and maintenance.
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